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An Expert Colorist

Colourist operating from the West Coast who specialises in grey hair. He works with celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

My top pick is a soft fabric towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to towel-dry your locks. It's often overlooked how much stress a typical terrycloth towel can do, notably with silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another affordable staple is a wide-tooth comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while removing knots and helps keep the health of the hair shafts, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A top-tier thermal appliance – ceramic or tourmaline, with smart temperature control. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the biggest gambles you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people melt their hair, experience breakage or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I would also avoid long-term smoothing services on pre-lightened strands. These formulations are often too aggressive for weakened hair and can cause lasting harm or undesired tones.

What frequent error do you observe?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. Some overuse toning shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. Others rely too much on high-protein masks and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. When applying hot tools or dryers without a protective product, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I also recommend follicle treatments containing stimulants to boost blood flow and aid in hair growth. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps remove residue and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, stress and dietary insufficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a personalized serum is applied – can be beneficial. That said, I always suggest consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley centers and lines targeting thinning.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will trim off splits at home every two weeks to maintain tip integrity, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are truly impressive if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had noticeable thinning – and also presently during some significant shedding after having a severe illness recently. Because locks are secondary, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say medicated treatments. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the contrary is accurate – particularly with flaky scalp, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a balancing act. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which options help with shedding?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will improve spontaneously. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus